What is a watchmaker? (Retail Edition)
“So you make watches?” Not really. But in order to fix a watch, it really helps to know how to make a watch.
Most watches and components are made by machines in huge manufacturing plants, not by hand. There are very few individuals making watches by hand, and most of them don’t fabricate every part. I make watches the same way you make your bed. You don’t actually build a bed from scratch every morning. That would be insane. I’m more of a watch repairer. Many of the skills and theory used in making a watch are necessary for repairs— especially when it comes to older pieces. So I’ll lay out for you some different ways to be a watchmaker.
Retail repair
Whether in a jewelry store or repair shop, this is the most customer-facing job in watchmaking. This is my job. I’m not a bushy-eyebrowed old man tinkering away with heaps of watches on my workbench (yet). I’m 35 with the tired eyes of a new father. I work in a jewelry store. Depending on the environment, there may be a technician who handles quick services like battery changes and bracelet sizing. You also get to see some pretty weird things.
A jump ring is a poor substitute for the correct battery.
If there is no technician, the watchmaker does everything from full mechanical overhauls, to refinishing, changing batteries, creating estimates, and educating customers.
The education part can be the most challenging for some watchmakers, as we’re not known for being a particularly social bunch. It could mean justifying a $1200 service to a grumpy customer, or it could mean a 45 minute consultation about a family heirloom. Sometimes it’s both.
Heirloom conversations are tricky to navigate because watches seem to carry more emotional weight than other jewelry. People feel strong connections to watches handed down by a grandparent or relative, and often they feel that this connection is stronger if the watch is running. The issues that make these interactions challenging are also what make them rewarding.
When you spend the time to fix an heirloom and bring it back into working order, it’s a very special feeling for everyone involved. Sometimes you surprise yourself with what you can accomplish. Chasing those warm fuzzy feelings is a tricky business, though. You might get guilted into taking on a watch you can not fix, so it’s important to know when and how to turn down a job. It’s also important to explain to customers why a watch cannot be fixed without calling their precious treasure a cheap dime store trinket. While we are on the subject of turning down work….
It’s also important as a watchmaker to stay in your lane. As I said, I work in a jewelry store, not a dedicated repair shop. It’s a high volume environment, and I’m mostly equipped to focus on a pretty narrow field. An extremely nice customer asked if I could service a watch for him. It was a super complicated piece of haute horology with a fusee and a tourbillon, worth well over $150,000. I kindly refused, but I did some snooping and found out there was really only one person who could take it on: Vianney Halter. He said he had spoken with Vianney Halter and that he was too busy to take on the repair at this time.
A few weeks later, the same customer asked me very casually if I could service another watch for him— an Audemars Piguet Grande Complication (one of four made). The repeater mechanism was chiming one hour behind. Very disappointing. I connected with the brand’s service department and found out how to facilitate a factory service for the customer. The list of instructions included — no joke — an armored truck. It turns out he already knew everything I told him, but he didn’t want to wait.
As a customer, you should know that you do not want your watchmaker taking shortcuts. If someone can do it cheaper, you should inquire about a warranty. If they offer to do it faster, you should make sure they are using genuine parts that they have in stock.
The typical timeline for a mechanical watch service is around 8-10 weeks. For a very high end brand that needs to go overseas, 30-50 weeks is not unusual. There is no real way for us to cut the timeline on these things because our workload is huge and we need to allow time for mistakes to happen or parts to be delayed. Your watch spends the majority of that service timeline moving through departments, and sitting in a bin waiting its turn to get taken apart.
Check back for the next edition in this series to learn where your watch goes and what happens when it gets there!
